Category: Poland

Watching a Water Dance at the Peoples Hall in Wroclaw Poland

4/22/2016

Not all historical sites in Wroclaw Poland are centuries old and one of the most beautiful is a grand exhibition and performance hall built in the 20th century. It is located further out from the historic center so walking there is out of the question. We hopped on one of the many golf-cart style touring vehicles and enjoyed a tour around Wroclaw that included the People’s Hall.

The People’s Hall (Hala Ludowa) was constructed according to the plans of architect Max Berg in 1911–1913, when the city was part of the German Empire.

The hall was originally called the “Centennial Hall” and was built as part of the celebration commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Leipzig, where King Frederick William III of Prussia called upon the Prussian and German people to rise up against Napoleon’s occupation. Napoleon was defeated at Leipzig in October of 1813.

In 1945, after Wroclaw became part of the Republic of Poland according to the Potsdam Agreement, the hall was renamed Hala Ludowa ("People's Hall") by the communist government.

In 1948, a 106 m (348 ft) high needle-like metal sculpture called Iglica was set up in front of it. The strange industrial-looking flagpole is exactly as you would picture a structure created by communist era designers.

The landscaping and buildings surrounding the hall were laid out by Hans Poelzig. The grounds include a huge pond with fountains enclosed by a concrete pergola in the form of half an ellipse. Beyond this, to the north, is a Japanese Garden.

For the highlight of our visit, our tour driver took us out via the long curved pergola to view the famous pond which spouts jets of water high into the air to the accompaniment of orchestra music. It is a lovely site to watch and we enjoyed the water concert for several minutes, but we were not alone. People were relaxing on the grass and benches, children and young couples played in the water at the edges of the pond and everyone was enjoying the stunning day.

The People’s Hall was a fun break from the heavy historical sites we had been exploring and shouldn’t be missed if you find yourself in Wroclaw Poland!

Learn more about visiting or attending a performance at The People's Hall in Wroclaw.

The National Museum in Wroclaw - A World-Class Collection of Polish Art-History

3/1/2016

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The National Museum in Wroclaw (Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu), was established in 1947, and is one of the main branches of Poland’s National Museum system. It is located beside the Odra River inside what was originally the Silesian Regency Office building, designed by architect Karl Friedrich Endell and built in 1883–1886.

If you want to really explore the art-history of Poland, this museum provides absolutely beautiful examples of Polish as well as European art.

There are four distinct sections divided by art-periods and historical epochs. The oldest is the "Silesian Art of the 12th to 16th century", featuring tomb sculpture of the Silesian princes and some of the most precious works of Gothic Art in Poland.

The second section is "Silesian Art of the 16th to 19th century" with sculpture, painting and decorative arts from Silesian Renaissance to Romanticism. The next section is the "Polish Art of the 17th to 19th century"
and, "European Art from the 15th through Early 20th century" and the paintings and sculptures were fabulous.

The last section on the top floor is “Polish Contemporary Art” which we skipped due to our time constraints.

This museum easily takes a whole day to explore and we only had a couple hours so we focused mostly on the Polish Art since we were on this trip to learn more about Poland.

While the paintings and decorative objects were very interesting and absolutely beautiful, to us the most fascinating and evocative pieces in the museum were the sculptural figures. Therefore, we have collected some of our favorites here for you to experience as well. I hope you enjoy them as much as we did!

OK..... I am also a sucker for gorgeous glassware, porcelain and decorative objects and the National Museum in Wroclaw has a wonderful collection! So I have included a few of my favorites from this collection as well!

Be sure to plan to visit the National Museum in Wroclaw if you are planning a trip to southern Poland. It is a wonderful museum and shouldn't be missed!

Click Here to learn more about visiting the National Museum in Wroclaw, Poland.

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Playing Hide & Seek with Gnomes in Wroclaw Poland!

2/28/2016

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Have you ever visited a grand city and found that something very small, almost unnoticeable turns out to be the most memorable part of the trip? In Wroclaw, Poland this is truly the case.

As we ventured out our first day, we noticed a couple of gnomes pouring wine on the sidewalk near our hotel. Yes…. gnomes, cute little bronze characters which brought a smile to our lips. Little did we know, this was just the beginning as we later came across another one! And then more!

These little guys are all over the old town of Wroclaw, tucked into the shade of historic buildings, nestled against curbs and sporting their jaunty poses out on the cobbled squares and lanes.

It soon became an obsession for us to keep an eye out for them and even seek them out. What fun it added to our walks around the historic center. We also had just as much fun watching the reactions of other tourists when they came across them!

While perfectly enjoyable in their own right, they actually have a history and purpose beyond whimsical pleasure. New gnomes arrive every year, but it all started with one placed by the 1980's anti-communist group “Orange Alternative” led by Waldemar Fydrych. The group used the iconography of gnomes as they painted over government propaganda. They even dressed up as gnomes during peaceful protests to effectively disarm the authorities with the silly looking costumes, fighting oppression with satire.

Over the years, each of the little bronze gnomes has been sponsored by a business and has usually been placed in front of their office. The company commissions a local artist to sculpt them a character. In most cases, the gnome’s identity is related to the business.

Who would have thought that such tiny bronze characters could mean so much to the history of Wroclaw and the anti-communist movement, but they are certainly also just fun to find and photograph and we didn’t find them all, so there are lots still out there for you to find!

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Stary Ratusz - The Beautiful Gothic Town Hall of Wroclaw Poland

2/19/2016

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Wroclaw’s Town Hall called Stary Ratusz is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city of Wroclaw and when we finally had a chance to get inside it, we were charmed by its historic rooms filled with significant architecture and extraordinary ornamental elements. Constructed, remodeled and decorated over seven centuries, it is a wonderful example of early civic architecture in Poland.

The structure and floor plan of the town hall developed over 250 years, from the 13th century through the 16th century and was revised and expanded over the centuries in response to the changing needs of the city.

Sometime between 1299 and 1301 a single-story structure with cellars and a tower were built. The oldest parts of the current building, the Burghers’ Hall and the lower floors of the tower, may date to this time. The early function of the building was to facilitate trade, but as the town grew, it became an administrative center as well.

Between 1328 and 1333 an upper story was added to include the Council Room and the Aldermen’s Room. Expansion continued during the 14th century with the addition of extra rooms, most notably the Court Room.

Above and Below: The Court Room

Below: The Council Room

Below: Council Office

Below: The Great Hall built from 1354-1357. It originally had a wooden cieling. Cross-ribbed vaulting throughout was added in 1470.

The 15th and 16th centuries were times of prosperity for Wroclaw particularly from 1470 to 1510, when several rooms were added and the Burghers Hall was remodeled. In the upper story, the Great Hall and Treasuries were redesigned. The town hall’s present appearance is from this period.

Net Vaulting was also added in 1470

During the second half of the 15th century, the tower was heightened by two stories and crowned with a Gothic cupola. During the 16th century the city’s Coat of Arms was added to the façade (1536), and the the upper part of the tower was rebuilt (1558–59). This was the final stage of the main building program.

During the 17th century, the allocation of space within the building was changed to ensure that all the town offices could be housed within Stary Ratusz.

The ground floor was allocated for military purposes and the general public had access only to the basement, where alcohol was served.

We peasants can still enjoy alcoholic beverages among the basement vaults because Piwnica Swidnicra restaurant is located beneath the town hall. Of course we had to have a drink there just to continue the tradition!

Even though the second half of the 17th century was a period of decline for Wroclaw, efforts were made to enrich the interior decorations of the hall. In 1741, Wroclaw became a part of Prussia, and the power of the city diminished. At that time, much of the town hall became allocated to administering justice.

During the 19th century the courts moved to a separate building and Stary Ratusz became the site of the City Council and its supporting functions. There was also a major renovation of the south façade with the addition of neo-Gothic stone features including sculptural decoration.

In the early years of the 20th century improvements continued with various repair work and the addition of the Little Bear Statue in 1902. Fortunately, during WWII, the town hall suffered only minor damage.

Stary Ratusz now houses a museum displaying the architectural history of the town hall, period antiques and special exhibitions. The Great Hall and other rooms are used for meetings and performances.

Don’t miss a visit to this beautiful historic building it is an amazing place learn more about the history of Wroclaw, Poland.

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Fabulous Color and Storybook Beauty in Wroclaw Poland's Medieval Market Square

2/8/2016

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When you arrive in Wroclaw Poland, your first thoughts as you walk out into the beautiful Medieval Market Square (Rynek we Wrocławiu) and its small adjacent square Plac Solney will likely be that it is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe.

Your eyes are immediately flooded with color as you take in the facades which are painted in a riot of paintbox hues and the mix of historic architectural styles lend a story-book quality to the view.

Wroclaw is located on the River Oder in the Silesian Lowlands of Central Europe and is the historical capital of Silesia and the Silesian Lowlands. Throughout its long and sometimes turbulent history, it has been part of the Kingdom of Poland, Bohemia, Hungary, the Austrian Empire, Prussia and Germany.

It was first recorded in the 10th century as the Bohemian town of Vratislavia and sat strategically at the intersection of two ancient trade routes originally named the Via Regia and the Amber Road. Today, you can buy fabulous Baltic Amber in both Wroclaw and Krakow.

By the year 1000, the settlement became a commercial center and by the 13th century, Wrocław was the political center of the Polish Kingdom. In 1335, Wrocław, together with almost all of Silesia, was incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia and then became a part of the Holy Roman Empire.

The city belonged to the Hanseatic League from 1387 – 1474. A few of the guild houses lining the square which were built during this period and during the continuing rise of the merchant class, can be found nestled among architecture influenced by Bohemian and Prussian traditions along with the Silesian Gothic and the style of the court builders of Habsburg Austria.

Below: House of the Seven Electors - Paintwork from 1672

Below: House of the Golden Sun built in 1727

Today, bars, restaurants and shops populate the beautiful historic buildings surrounding the Gothic Town Hall which sits in the center of the square, built between 1470 and 1510. The Town Hall sits beside a another picturesque structure which was built at the end of the 19th century and hosts more businesses and shops.

There is not a large cathedral inside the square as is often the case in European market squares, though slightly off in a northern corner, the Church of St. Elizabeth, built in the 14th century, presides with its tall Gothic tower. Originally built as a Catholic basilica, after the arrival of the Protestant Reformation in Wroclaw in 1518, the church became Protestant in 1525.

Off the opposite corner of the square is the beautiful Baroque Royal Palace of the Prussian Monarchy built in 1717. It now houses the city museum filled with artifacts from the history of Wroclaw.

The flower market is located in the small adjacent square called Plac Solney and one of our tour guides informed us that it was open 24 hours a day so that lovers could buy flowers at any time as flower-giving is a favorite custom in Wroclaw.

We spent lots of time in this square during the four days we visited Wroclaw and the surrounding countryside, we hope you enjoyed its storybook beauty in this photo introduction to lovely Wroclaw Poland!

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The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and St Andrew's Apostle Church - Holy Neighbors in Krakow Poland

1/29/2016

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There are a number of beautiful churches, cathedrals and basilicas in Krakow Poland and it is well worth the time to try to get to all of them. Fortunately, there are several right in the historic center and within walking distance of the main square. One of those is The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and it has a beautiful neighbor, St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is located on the picturesque winding street Ulica Grodzka, which leads from the market square Rynek Glowny to Wawel Castle.

The church is a lovely example of the Baroque style in Poland. It was funded by King Sigismund III Vasa and built for the Jesuit order between 1597–1619. Several architects worked on the church during its construction. The plan as a cruciform basilica was originally drafted by Italian architect Giovanni de Rossi. His design was initially carried out by Józef Britius and later modified by Giovanni Maria Bernardoni

The present day façade constructed from dolomite, the dome, and the Baroque interior were designed by Giovanni Battista Trevano, who completed them in the years 1605–1619.

Statues of the Jesuit saints; Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Aloysius Gonzaga and Stanislaw Kostka fill the façade niches. The emblem of the order of Jesuits with saints Sigismund of Burgundy and Ladislaus I of Hungary, presides above the entrance portal.

The enclosing railings with the twelve limestone figures of the Apostles were originally installed in 1715-22. Today, in place of the original 18th century statues, which were damaged by acid rain, are contemporary copies made by Kazimierz Jęczmyk.

The stucco decorations of the interior, mainly on the apse and overhead vaults, were created by Giovanni Battista Falconi of Milan, who spent most of his adult life working in Poland. He also created the scenes from the life and martyrdom of Saints Peter and Paul, fabulous Putti and the statues of the patrons of Poland, Saint Wojciech and Saint Stanislawa.

The high altar was designed by Kacper Bazanka in 1735 featuring Józef Brodowski’s painting "Presentation of Keys to St. Peter" (c.1820).

On the sides of the altar, there are sculpted throne compositions supported by statues of the Doctors of the Church and crowned with paintings by Szymon Czechowicz symbolizing the Western and Eastern Church.

The crypt housed the striking 17th century sarcophagus of Bishop Andrzej Trzebicki and a rare Black Madonna Icon.

Right next door, is the beautiful Romanesque church of St. Andrew’s Apostle Church. The historic church was built between 1079 and 1098 by a medieval Polish statesman named Palatine Sieciech and is a rare surviving example of the European fortress church used for defensive purposes. It was the only church in Krakow to withstand the Mongol attack of 1241.

The two octagonal looking towers, with the doubled arcade windows are perfect examples and characteristic of Romanesque architecture. The Baroque domes topping the towers were added in 1639.

From 1320 the church has been used by the Religious Order of Poor Clares. For this reason, we only had a quick peek inside as it was in use for devotions during our visit. Even though we only had a few moments inside, the beauty of the Baroque interior was memorable.

The baroque decoration of the interior, with its rich exuberant stucco decoration is by Italian painter and architect Baldassare "Baltazar" Fontana (c. 1700) and the high altar is attributed to Francesco Placidi.

The most beautiful and amazing piece of décor in the church is the silver pulpit in the shape of a fantastical boat. Equally impressive is the musical choir with 18th-century organ in the chancel, decorated in the Rococo manner.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is one of the loveliest of Poland’s Baroque churches, and St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door is like a tiny jewel box, so be sure to stop by for a visit to both when you are in Krakow!

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Wawel Castle - Home to Poland's Kings and Queens for Centuries

1/25/2016

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Historic Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland with its attached Wawel Cathedral is perch high on Wawel Hill, and we were very excited as we walked up the hill to its entrance. This is where we found that a line was forming for tickets. We happened to be in Krakow on a holiday weekend, so we had planned to be at the castle first thing in the morning.

This proved to be fortuitous because the ticket line was already getting long and we found to our surprise that a large electronic board was constantly updated with how many of the day’s limited tickets were left for sale. Due to conservation efforts only a limited number of visitors are allowed each day. The first frizzon of anxiety began to niggle me and Jim as usual began to see the worst happening…. that we wouldn’t get in!

As we stood watching the line in front of us crawl at a snail’s pace, the ticket board steadily counted down and our anxiety grew. The castle complex buildings and its museums are considered separate entities and you must purchase a ticket for each you wish to visit as well as the cathedral. This process greatly increases the amount of time each transaction takes.

Tickets to see the actual royal apartments of the castle are the most restrictive because entrance is via a guided group tour and we kept a keen eye on the tiny allotment as it steadily diminished.

We managed to finally get our tickets when there were only 18 tour tickets left for the day. Whew!

With relief, we finally walked through the arched portico of the castle wall and into the huge courtyard, only to find that photography was forbidden inside the castle and cathedral. The only place where photos were allowed was outside.

To a travel blogger this is terrible news and as you can imagine I was incredibly frustrated even as I was actually freed up to enjoy the beautiful cathedral, castle rooms and exhibits to a degree I don’t usually experience when I'm busy taking photos!

People have lived on Wawel Hill from as early as fifty thousand years ago, in the Paleolithic Age. Over time, more people began to build on the hill overlooking the Vistula River and eventually a settlement bustling with trade, assorted crafts and local farming was created.

Beginning from this small hamlet, Krakow became the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. The city dates back to the 7th century and Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish economic, academic, cultural, and artistic life.

The settlement was already being reported as a busy trading center of “Slavonic Europe” by 965 a.d. As trade through area became more efficient and important, the rulers of Poland took up their residence at the Hill as well. It was the capital of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland from 1038 to 1569. It continued to be a seat of Polish government for centuries.

The Gothic castle was built Casimir III (The Great), who reigned from 1333 to 1370, and consisted of a number of structures situated around the central courtyard. In the 14th century it was rebuilt by Jogaila and Jadwiga of Poland and defensive walls and towers were added. Their reign saw the addition of the tower called the Hen's Foot (Kurza Stopka) and the Danish Tower. Other structures were built on the hill during that time as well, in order to serve as quarters for the numerous clergy, royal clerks and craftsmen.

Below: Sigismund III Vasa Tower

Below: Hen's Foot Tower

During the early 16th century, King Sigismund I (The Old) and his wife brought in the best native and foreign artists including Italian architects, sculptors, and German decorators, to refurbish the castle into a splendid Renaissance palace.

In 1609, King Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital to Warsaw, and both the castle and other buildings fell into neglect. The Swedish invasions of 1655–1657 and 1702 contributed to the further deterioration of the castle and through the centuries, during the many conflicts, the castle and its fortifications continued to be modified to accommodate many different uses.

The royal apartments you can tour today are restored as they would have appeared in the 17th century. The state apartments are on the top (third) floor rather than the second like most European palaces. The castle’s second floor contained private apartments of the royal family, whereas the court officials worked and lived downstairs. The rooms are furnished with beautiful period furniture and world-class objects of art.

"Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The 14th century Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, known as the Wawel Cathedral, is also located on Wawel Hill. It is a Catholic church and is the Polish national sanctuary. For centuries it has served as the coronation site of the Polish monarchs as well as the Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Krakow.

It is known in modern times as the place where Karol Wojtyla, who in 1978 became Pope John Paul II, was ordained to the priesthood on All Saints Day (November 1), 1946 and served his first mass inside the Crypt of the cathedral in 1948.
As you can imagine, the 17th century cathedral interior is spectacularly beautiful!

Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The complex also has a small café with tables where you can find a drink and snack to break up your visits to the various museums and buildings of the castle. We enjoyed a leisurely sandwich and beer lunch while we people-watched in the large courtyard.

Wawel Castle is definitely a must-see when you visit Krakow, Poland, but to make your trip even more enjoyable, be sure to follow these suggestions:

Try avoid visiting during a holiday weekend
Make reservations ahead of your visit at the Tourist Service office
Arrive early in the morning
Opt for the guided tour (Polish/English only) of the royal apartments
Remember, you must buy a separate ticket for each museum/castle/cathedral site in the complex.

Learn more about visiting Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland

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Exploring Wieliczka - Krakow's Medieval Royal Salt Mine

1/21/2016

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The Wieliczka Salt Mine was established on the outskirts of Krakow Poland in the 13th century as a royal salt mine. For centuries it was one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments when common salt was commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil.

Nine centuries of mining in the Wieliczka mine produced a total depth of approximately 327 meters (1,073 ft) and over 287 kilometers (178 mi) of passages as well as 2,040 caverns of various sizes. Commercial mining was discontinued in 1996 due to low salt prices and mine flooding, but the mine continued to produce table salt until 2007.

Millions of visitors, including the crowned heads of state, notables including Copernicus, Chopin, Goethe and Sarah Bernhardt and even a Pope (John Paul II) among them, have explored the subterranean world of labyrinthine passages, giant caverns, underground lakes and chapels with sculptures in the crystalline salt and rich ornamentation carved in the salt rock. In 1978 the mine was placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

To visit the mine, you must join a guided group-tour. We were each provided with receiver and earbuds so we could hear our guide even when exploring a few feet away from her. She was very informative and knowledgeable which definitely added to our enjoyment of the experience.

The tourist route starts 64 m deep, includes twenty chambers, and ends 135 m below the earth surface, where the world's biggest museum of mining is located with the unique centuries-old equipment among its exhibits.

The experience begins with a walk straight down several flights of wooden stairs giving you a real sense of descending into the mine. As you tour, plaques indicate the date that each level was excavated starting with the oldest excavations nearer the surface and progressing to later dates as you go deeper underground.

The rock salt is naturally various shades of grey, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors may expect. Cauliflower-looking white-salt eruptions cover ceilings and walls and stalactites formed by salt-water hang from the ceilings.

Grottoes filled with cave-lakes reflecting the continual flooding the miners had to deal with.

Vignettes populate the caverns to help people understand what the 17th and 18th century mining experience would have entailed, including a huge Hungarian horse-treadmill, horse-drawn ore-carts and torch-lit mining.

Precarious carved steps, ladders and an amazingly tall wooden staircase which fills one huge cavern reminded us that before the advent of mine-lifts, men would have trudged up and down these intricate stairways and slippery salt slopes.

There are also clever vignettes of tiny “Gnome Miners” adding a bit of fantasy to the experience!

Salt-sculptures along the passages and inside the cavern rooms are beautifully carved and bring to mind scenes of workers showing their artistic side during the long tedious days underground. There are also a number of small chapels and nitches filled with religious figures.

Below is a sculptural vignette that portrays the legend attached to the mine:

"Princess Kinga, a Hungarian noblewoman was about to be married to Bolesław V the Chaste, the Prince of Kraków. As part of her dowry, she asked her father for a lump of salt, since salt was prizeworthy in Poland.

Her father King Béla took her to a salt mine in Máramaros. She threw her engagement ring from Bolesław in one of the shafts before leaving for Poland. On arriving in Kraków, she asked the miners to dig a deep pit until they come upon a rock.

The people found a lump of salt in there and when they split it in two, discovered the princess's ring. Kinga thus became the patron saint of salt miners in and around the Polish capital."

The Wieliczka mine is often referred to as "the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland." Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance. The huge cathedral cavern walls are carved with beautiful religious statuary and reliefs including an amazing reproduction of the “Last Supper”.

Even the floors are carved salt simulating floor tiles.

The interiors of the large mine caverns and “cathedral” have marvelous acoustics and are often used for musical performances.

Deep underground, you can take a break in the gift-shop and café caverns. You can buy table salt mined from Wieliczka from the gift-shop. There are also halls available for special events including a bar area.

Just a note: Leaving the mine can be very confusing! The signs were not clear, so we lined up behind the “individual tourist” sign hoping it was the right one. After a group had gathered, someone lead us off onto a long……long….. underground walk, with further commentary and a quick stop at another chapel, which we began to think was another tour so we began to panic. We had a ride to catch! Fortunately, just as we were about to bolt from the group to find our way alone back to the sign, we came to the “real” exit. So be aware, the exit is EXTREMELY long walk and we promise you aren’t starting a new tour!

A visit to the historic royal Wieliczka Salt Mine is a fun and educational experience and anyone visiting Krakow, Poland should plan to visit this amazing place!

Click here to learn more about visiting the Wieliczka Salt Mine!

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Pierogi Love in Krakow Poland!

1/17/2016

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You simply can’t visit Poland and not try their famous dish called the “Pierogi” and Jim and I found a number occasions to order it, telling ourselves we needed to try all the different preparations. The reality was that they are just really yummy. This is a high-carb dish perfect for fueling an afternoon of sightseeing.

While staying in Krakow, we chose to indulge at a restaurant called Chopin which is located right on the market square, Rynek Glowny. We sat at a table on the outside terrace where we had a fabulous view of the historic square, its beautiful buildings, the many elaborately decorated horses and carriages and most importantly, it was perfect for people-watching.

Chopin specializes in authentic Polish cuisine as well as other European specialties, but we were on the hunt for pierogis so we stayed focused even though other dishes delivered to nearby tables also looked very good. Happily, the pierogis when they arrived were absolutely delicious and everything we had hoped they would be!

Pierogi or pirogi (pronounced pi-ROH-ghee) are stuffed dumplings of East European origin. They are made by wrapping pockets of unleavened dough around a savory or sweet filling and cooked in boiling water. The dumplings are usually semi-circular but triangular and rectangular ones are also found. Typical fillings include mashed potato, sauerkraut, ground meat, cabbage, mushrooms, spinach and cheese in the savory version. The savory dumplings are often served with toppings, such as melted butter, sour cream or fried onion.

Our favorite pierogi turned out to be the meat dumplings which are filled with a well spiced very flavorful ground beef mixture. We also tried the “Russian” style pierogi which was filled with mashed potatoes, farmers cheese and fried onions and a version with cabbage and mushrooms.

Fruits and jams including cherry, strawberry, saskatoon berry, raspberry, blueberry, peach, plum, apple and prunes are used in the sweet pierogis. I have to admit, we did not try the fruit version, so we now have a perfect excuse (among SO many others) to return to Poland!

Be sure to try pierogis when you visit Poland. They should not be missed, and sitting on the terrace at Chopin watching the scene in beautiful Rynek Glowny is the perfect way to experience this Polish national dish……and you might even get a serenade!

Learn more about Chopin Restaurant in Krakow, Poland

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St Mary's Basilica in Krakow - A Sacred Space filled with Golden Stars

1/14/2016

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Sitting in Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s large market square, you can’t help but be impressed by the tall beauty of the Church of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven also known as St. Mary’s Basilica.

According to chronicler Jan Dlugosz the first parish church at the Main Square in Kraków was founded in 1221–1222 by the Bishop of Krakow, Iwo Odrowaz. The church was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of Poland. Between 1290–1300 a second Early Gothic church was built on the remaining foundations.

The church was completely rebuilt under the reign of Casimir III (the Great) between 1355 and 1365. The vault (originally built in 1395) collapsed and was rebuilt. The presbytery was elongated and tall windows added. The nave was completed in 1395–97 and the new vault was constructed.

At the same time the northern tower was torn down and rebuilt to serve as the watch tower for the entire city. In 1478 the helmet on the tower was added. A gilded crown was placed on it in 1666, which is still present today.

In the first half of the 15th century, the side chapels were added.

In the 18th century, the interior was rebuilt in the Late Baroque style. All 26 altars, equipment, furniture, benches and paintings were replaced and the walls were decorated with painting by the artist Andrzej Radwański.

In the years 1887–1891, additional neo-Gothic design was introduced into the Basilica.

Though the layers of beauty added throughout the centuries are impressive and make this basilica into a virtual jewel box, in my opinion, the most spectacular part of this fabulous interior are the star covered ceiling vaults, where a golden array of stars shine from a deep royal blue field.

The highlight of this fabulous interior, is the Altarpiece of Veit Stoss, which is the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world and a national treasure of Poland. The altarpiece was carved between 1477 and 1489 by the German sculptor Veit Stoss (Wit Stwosz) who lived in Krakow from about 1477–1497.

Interestingly, a few weeks prior to the outbreak of the WWII and German occupation, the Poles took the altar apart and dispersed it across the country. Unfortunately, the crates were found and the Altarpiece was confiscated by a Nazi unit called the Sonderkommando Paulsen and transported to the Third Reich. The panels were also found and sent to Germany. They were put in the basement of the Nuremberg Castle. The altar survived the war in spite of heavy bombardment of Nuremberg.

The magnificent altarpiece was fortunately discovered by Count Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, of the Polish 1st Armored Division, and returned to Poland in 1946 where it presides behind the high altar of the opulent and impressive sacred space of St. Mary’s Basilica to this day.

There is particularly interesting footnote to the history of St. Mary's. On every hour, a trumpet signal called the Hejnal Mariacki "Saint Mary's Dawn"; a traditional, five-note Polish anthem closely bound to the history and traditions of the capital, Kraków. It is played from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers and the plaintive tune breaks off in mid-stream, to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter, who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city. Try to be in the square to hear this unique bell toll!

Learn more about visiting St. Mary's Basilica in Krakow, Poland

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Watching a Water Dance at the Peoples Hall in Wroclaw Poland

The National Museum in Wroclaw - A World-Class Collection of Polish Art-History

Playing Hide & Seek with Gnomes in Wroclaw Poland!

Stary Ratusz - The Beautiful Gothic Town Hall of Wroclaw Poland

Fabulous Color and Storybook Beauty in Wroclaw Poland's Medieval Market Square

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and St Andrew's Apostle Church - Holy Neighbors in Krakow Poland

Wawel Castle - Home to Poland's Kings and Queens for Centuries

Exploring Wieliczka - Krakow's Medieval Royal Salt Mine

Pierogi Love in Krakow Poland!

St Mary's Basilica in Krakow - A Sacred Space filled with Golden Stars

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Email me at[email protected]

Email me at
[email protected]