<![CDATA[Ageless GlobeTravels - Susan\'s Tales]]>

<![CDATA[Ageless GlobeTravels - Susan\'s Tales]]>Sun, 01 Sep 2024 15:10:22 -0700Weebly<![CDATA[Exploring Bahamian History, Culture and Nature with Cheryl's Bahamas Taxi and Tours]]>Tue, 12 Jul 2016 22:07:34 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/exploring-bahamian-history-culture-and-nature-with-cheryls-bahamas-taxi-and-tours

What is the best way to get to know the location you are visiting? With a local tour guide of course!
One of the best choices we made when planning our trip to Paradise Island in the Bahamas, was to use the services of Cheryl’s Bahamas Taxi and Tours. They offer an all day tour (aprox 9:00 – 5:00) of the best tourist sites on the main island of New Providence and the city of Nassau.

Our guide Dwayne arrived in a clean air-conditioned van and the four of us (three adults and one child) piled in to the comfortable seats, excited about the places we would be visiting during the all day tour of New Providence Island which is where the capital of the Bahamas, Nassau, is located. Shortly, we were driving over the bridge that connects Paradise Island to New Providence Island heading for our full day adventure.

The island was originally under Spanish control following Christopher Columbus's arrival in the New World, but the Spanish government showed little interest in the islands and they quickly became a home base for pirates.

After having been burned to the ground by the Spanish in 1684, the small settlement of 900 originally called Charles Town was rebuilt by the English. It was renamed Nassau in 1695 by Nicholas Trott, who had been appointed Lord Proprietor. He named the town in honor of the Prince of Orange-Nassau who became King William III of England. The modern Bahamian Government is headquartered on New Providence and the island is home to a cruise port, bustling downtown shops and restaurants and a number of historic sites and island activities.

Our tour included many of these sites and activities and we had a fabulous time exploring amazing history and culture of New Providence with our friendly knowledgeable driver/guide Dwayne, from Cheryl’s Bahamas Taxi and Tours. Not only did we get an amazing tour, but Cheryl sent along the most delicious Bahama Mamas in the van cooler to kick off our adventure.

Our first stop was at the smallest historic fort on the island. Ft. Montague is a tiny fortress and is the oldest of the island’s three forts. It was built in 1741 to defend the island from attack by Spanish invaders and it faces the eastern end of the harbor.

When the fort was built, it contained barracks for officers and soldiers, a guard room, and bomb proof powder magazine which could hold ninety-five barrels of powder and 17 mounted cannons. Normally the fortress is open for visitors to walk up onto the ramparts, but for some unknown reason, was closed the morning we were there, so we marveled at its petite size and headed on to our next destination.

The next stop was at the fishing dock where we were given a Conch shelling demonstration and it was not just our youngest tour member that was fascinated! We were allowed to touch the still living conchs and take a good look at how they nestled in their beautiful shells before watching the extraction and cleaning process.

The fisherman deftly chopped the conch and handed it over to the chef who added onions, peppers and mango creating the most delicious fresh conch salad we had ever tasted. I was not a conch fan but even I enjoyed the way it tasted and I realized the difference between absolutely fresh conch and that which most restaurants serve.

Our third stop was a yummy tasting and purchasing experience at the Bahamas Rum Cake Factory. Large windows separate the shop from the small factory where you can see their production space. I can unequivocally state that this is the most delicious rum cake I have ever tasted! If you like rum, you will swoon over these tender rum soaked cakes. The shop has a selection of tropical flavored cakes beyond the classic rum cake, including what turned out to be my favorite, Key Lime.

Our next stop, Fort Fincastle was not only an impressive historic fortress, but also was a testament to an uglier history which included poignant illustrations of the terrible era of slavery in the Bahamas. To get up to the fort, you must climb a steep stone staircase which is located at the end of a deep, long rock faced chasm.

The Queen's Staircase, commonly referred to as The 66 steps, was hewn out of solid limestone rock by slaves between 1793 and 1794 to provide a direct route from Fort Fincastle to Nassau City. I could imagine how awful the conditions must have been for the slaves forced to carve the giant channel from the unyielding stone day after hot humid day, for months. Standing at the bottom, the height and width of huge space dug by the slaves is stunning.

The steps were later named in honor of Queen Victoria, who reigned in Britain for 64 years from 1837 to 1901. There are only 65 steps visible because the pathway that leads to the steps was paved and the bottom step is buried under the asphalt.

Another smallish fort, Fort Fincastle was built in 1793 by the Royal Governor of the islands, Lord Dunsmore, the Viscount Fincastle and its cannons protected Nassau and its harbor from invaders. It is located on Bennett’s Hill, the highest point on the island. A tour guide provides historic information and leads you through the fortress.

Interestingly, the fort served as a lighthouse until 1817 when a lighthouse was built on the point of Hog Island (now Paradise Island).

Taking a break from military history, our next stop was a light-hearted view into the hand crafting small-batch rums at John Watling’s Distillery on the historic Buena Vista Estate, home to John Watling's Rum, the “Spirit of The Bahamas”.

The historic Estate, founded in 1789 overlooks the harbor. Set on more than two acres of gardens and olive trees, the Buena Vista Estate once served as the residence of royal governors and chief justices.

Very little is known about the buccaneer John Watling who gave his name to Watling Island in The Bahamas (now San Salvadore Island) except that he was an English pirate and privateer who fled from Watling Island to Rum Cay from where he picked up supplies, and then with other pirates, plundered throughout Central America, South America and the South Sea Islands until his death in 1861.

The Watling’s Rum legend states that “While every bottle of his namesake rum is considered liquid gold, it is rumored that Watling’s treasure remains undisturbed at Fortune Hill in San Salvador”. The tour includes a brief instruction about the aging techniques used to create the distinct flavors and depths in each batch of rum. Of course, we had to taste some of this “liquid gold” and after the very interesting tour, headed to the tasting room!

With the adults fortified after the rum tasting, our guide whisked us off to the last and largest fort on our itinerary, Fort Charlotte. The British-colonial era fort was built in 1788 by Lord Dunmore, the fort which has a commanding view over Nassau harbor was named after the wife of King George III, Queen Saharia Charlotte.

The fort includes a water-less moat, draw-bridge, underground passageways and dungeons, ramparts and 42 cannons. The middle bastion called Fort Stanley and the western portion, Ft. D'Arcy were added later. The fort houses a very interesting museum portraying the daily life and service of the soldiers who would have manned the fort during the 18th and 19th century and compliments the tour-guide who leads you through the fortress museum. Interestingly, none of the three forts on New Providence saw any actual action against the enemies they were built to repel.

Our day tour definitely had something for everyone! Our next stop was a completely different type of experience. A Bat Cave! I had never seen real bats hanging from the rocky dome of a cave. A tour guide gave us a brief introduction to “Fruit Bats” (interestingly they don’t eat fruit). They were so small and there were so many of them, I was happy that they seemed to be calmly taking a nap, oblivious to our intrusion. The cave was amazing and the craggy domed structure itself, while small was beautifully formed.

The site that was furthest out of Nassau was the Clifton Heritage Park, where two of our group (Jim and I) decided to take the history tour and two decided to go snorkeling at the famous Coral Reef Sculpture Garden.

The history tour included the remnants of the historical and cultural legacy of three important groups that had an impact on the country: The Lucayan Native, the British Loyalists and the Africans, including the ruins of what would have been the plantation great-house, the restored carriage-house and partially restored slave cabins.

We saw the stone steps, cut out of the limestone rock, where vessels would dock and goods would have been loaded and unloaded and brought up to the road which connected the island plantations. It is very possible that slaves may have been unloaded at these steps also and certainly worked to move goods to and from the sea vessels.

Nearby as we walked back along the sea-cliff, we viewed art installations by Antonius Roberts memorializing the African slave experience. The elegant female figures, originally trunks of unwanted Casuarina trees, were carved in place to mark the triumph of hope and determination to conserve Bahamian heritage. According to our tour guide, the marks on the torsos represent the wounds from the lashes of whips.

Another installation of rough-hewn chairs facing out to sea, referencing the religious experience of the slaves who gathered together remembering their home on the other side of the ocean.

It was extremely hot that day, so I have to admit that we wished we had gone snorkeling and I waded into the beautiful cool ocean while waiting for our snorkelers to emerge . From the reports we received, Clifton Parks famous underwater sculpture garden was amazing and there was also a carcass of a plane and movie sets such as “Jaws”. There are also schools of colorful fish, bright corals and other sea creatures. The water in the Bahamas is crystal clear enhancing the entire snorkeling experience.

Above: Clifton Heritage Park Underwater Sculpture Garden - photo credit: http://cliftonheritage.org/snorkel-beach.html

After all the activities we were ready for a late lunch, so Dwayne drove us to the “Fish Fry”, a street lined by a rainbow row of restaurants where it is said, you can find the best Bahamian cuisine. Since not all restaurants are not equal, we had done our homework and made our way directly to Oh Andros, which has a reputation for preparing the most authentic, fresh and delicious food at the Fish Fry.

They do not exaggerate! It was obvious that Oh Andros was a local favorite because it was packed, so be prepared to wait, but the wait is well worth it. The heaping mounds of grouper, lobster and shrimp, chicken, spicy rice, mac and cheese, and plantains were absolutely delicious.

Back in town, our second to last stop was at the Pirate Museum, which was populated with vignettes of raiding pirates, buccaneers, recreated 18th century sea ports and privateers. Geared toward kids, the museum provides interesting historic information and fun interactive opportunities to learn more about pirates as you proceed along the museum tour route.

Our final stop on our day tour of New Providence, was downtown Nassau and the “Straw Market” which is located in a huge covered market area and is brimming with colorful Bahamian themed souvenirs. Sharpen your bargaining skills before you enter, because half the fun is bargaining the price down a bit!

After working up a thirst from exploring the many shops in Nassau, a drink while taking in a view of the sparkling harbor and busy cruise port is definitely called for and there are a number of restaurants and bars to pick from. Find one on the second floor for the fun view!

After a fabulous day filled with amazing history, culture and adventure, we were whisked back to our resort tired but happy that we had taken this tour with Cheryl’s Bahamas Taxi and Tours. If you are planning a trip to the Bahamas be sure to take a tour!

Click Here to learn more about Cheryl's Bahamas Taxi and Tours!

]]><![CDATA[Watching a Water Dance at the Peoples Hall in Wroclaw Poland]]>Fri, 22 Apr 2016 16:08:16 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/watching-a-water-dance-at-the-peoples-hall-in-wroclaw-poland

Not all historical sites in Wroclaw Poland are centuries old and one of the most beautiful is a grand exhibition and performance hall built in the 20th century. It is located further out from the historic center so walking there is out of the question. We hopped on one of the many golf-cart style touring vehicles and enjoyed a tour around Wroclaw that included the People’s Hall.

The People’s Hall (Hala Ludowa) was constructed according to the plans of architect Max Berg in 1911–1913, when the city was part of the German Empire.

The hall was originally called the “Centennial Hall” and was built as part of the celebration commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Leipzig, where King Frederick William III of Prussia called upon the Prussian and German people to rise up against Napoleon’s occupation. Napoleon was defeated at Leipzig in October of 1813.

In 1945, after Wroclaw became part of the Republic of Poland according to the Potsdam Agreement, the hall was renamed Hala Ludowa ("People's Hall") by the communist government.

In 1948, a 106 m (348 ft) high needle-like metal sculpture called Iglica was set up in front of it. The strange industrial-looking flagpole is exactly as you would picture a structure created by communist era designers.

The landscaping and buildings surrounding the hall were laid out by Hans Poelzig. The grounds include a huge pond with fountains enclosed by a concrete pergola in the form of half an ellipse. Beyond this, to the north, is a Japanese Garden.

For the highlight of our visit, our tour driver took us out via the long curved pergola to view the famous pond which spouts jets of water high into the air to the accompaniment of orchestra music. It is a lovely site to watch and we enjoyed the water concert for several minutes, but we were not alone. People were relaxing on the grass and benches, children and young couples played in the water at the edges of the pond and everyone was enjoying the stunning day.

The People’s Hall was a fun break from the heavy historical sites we had been exploring and shouldn’t be missed if you find yourself in Wroclaw Poland!

Learn more about visiting or attending a performance at The People's Hall in Wroclaw.

]]><![CDATA[The National Museum in Wroclaw - A World-Class Collection of Polish Art-History]]>Tue, 01 Mar 2016 20:19:44 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/the-national-museum-of-wroclaw-a-world-class-collection-of-polish-art-history

The National Museum in Wroclaw (Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu), was established in 1947, and is one of the main branches of Poland’s National Museum system. It is located beside the Odra River inside what was originally the Silesian Regency Office building, designed by architect Karl Friedrich Endell and built in 1883–1886.

If you want to really explore the art-history of Poland, this museum provides absolutely beautiful examples of Polish as well as European art.

There are four distinct sections divided by art-periods and historical epochs. The oldest is the "Silesian Art of the 12th to 16th century", featuring tomb sculpture of the Silesian princes and some of the most precious works of Gothic Art in Poland.

The second section is "Silesian Art of the 16th to 19th century" with sculpture, painting and decorative arts from Silesian Renaissance to Romanticism. The next section is the "Polish Art of the 17th to 19th century"
and, "European Art from the 15th through Early 20th century" and the paintings and sculptures were fabulous.

The last section on the top floor is “Polish Contemporary Art” which we skipped due to our time constraints.

This museum easily takes a whole day to explore and we only had a couple hours so we focused mostly on the Polish Art since we were on this trip to learn more about Poland.

While the paintings and decorative objects were very interesting and absolutely beautiful, to us the most fascinating and evocative pieces in the museum were the sculptural figures. Therefore, we have collected some of our favorites here for you to experience as well. I hope you enjoy them as much as we did!

OK..... I am also a sucker for gorgeous glassware, porcelain and decorative objects and the National Museum in Wroclaw has a wonderful collection! So I have included a few of my favorites from this collection as well!

Be sure to plan to visit the National Museum in Wroclaw if you are planning a trip to southern Poland. It is a wonderful museum and shouldn't be missed!

Click Here to learn more about visiting the National Museum in Wroclaw, Poland.

]]><![CDATA[Playing Hide & Seek with Gnomes in Wroclaw Poland! ]]>Sun, 28 Feb 2016 18:46:29 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/playing-hide-seek-with-gnomes-in-wroclaw-poland

Have you ever visited a grand city and found that something very small, almost unnoticeable turns out to be the most memorable part of the trip? In Wroclaw, Poland this is truly the case.

As we ventured out our first day, we noticed a couple of gnomes pouring wine on the sidewalk near our hotel. Yes…. gnomes, cute little bronze characters which brought a smile to our lips. Little did we know, this was just the beginning as we later came across another one! And then more!

These little guys are all over the old town of Wroclaw, tucked into the shade of historic buildings, nestled against curbs and sporting their jaunty poses out on the cobbled squares and lanes.

It soon became an obsession for us to keep an eye out for them and even seek them out. What fun it added to our walks around the historic center. We also had just as much fun watching the reactions of other tourists when they came across them!

While perfectly enjoyable in their own right, they actually have a history and purpose beyond whimsical pleasure. New gnomes arrive every year, but it all started with one placed by the 1980's anti-communist group “Orange Alternative” led by Waldemar Fydrych. The group used the iconography of gnomes as they painted over government propaganda. They even dressed up as gnomes during peaceful protests to effectively disarm the authorities with the silly looking costumes, fighting oppression with satire.

Over the years, each of the little bronze gnomes has been sponsored by a business and has usually been placed in front of their office. The company commissions a local artist to sculpt them a character. In most cases, the gnome’s identity is related to the business.

Who would have thought that such tiny bronze characters could mean so much to the history of Wroclaw and the anti-communist movement, but they are certainly also just fun to find and photograph and we didn’t find them all, so there are lots still out there for you to find!

]]><![CDATA[Stary Ratusz - The Beautiful Gothic Town Hall of Wroclaw Poland]]>Sat, 20 Feb 2016 02:36:46 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/stary-ratusz-the-beautiful-gothic-town-hall-of-wroclaw-poland

Wroclaw’s Town Hall called Stary Ratusz is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city of Wroclaw and when we finally had a chance to get inside it, we were charmed by its historic rooms filled with significant architecture and extraordinary ornamental elements. Constructed, remodeled and decorated over seven centuries, it is a wonderful example of early civic architecture in Poland.

The structure and floor plan of the town hall developed over 250 years, from the 13th century through the 16th century and was revised and expanded over the centuries in response to the changing needs of the city.

Sometime between 1299 and 1301 a single-story structure with cellars and a tower were built. The oldest parts of the current building, the Burghers’ Hall and the lower floors of the tower, may date to this time. The early function of the building was to facilitate trade, but as the town grew, it became an administrative center as well.

Between 1328 and 1333 an upper story was added to include the Council Room and the Aldermen’s Room. Expansion continued during the 14th century with the addition of extra rooms, most notably the Court Room.

Above and Below: The Court Room

Below: The Council Room

Below: Council Office

Below: The Great Hall built from 1354-1357. It originally had a wooden cieling. Cross-ribbed vaulting throughout was added in 1470.

The 15th and 16th centuries were times of prosperity for Wroclaw particularly from 1470 to 1510, when several rooms were added and the Burghers Hall was remodeled. In the upper story, the Great Hall and Treasuries were redesigned. The town hall’s present appearance is from this period.

Net Vaulting was also added in 1470

During the second half of the 15th century, the tower was heightened by two stories and crowned with a Gothic cupola. During the 16th century the city’s Coat of Arms was added to the façade (1536), and the the upper part of the tower was rebuilt (1558–59). This was the final stage of the main building program.

During the 17th century, the allocation of space within the building was changed to ensure that all the town offices could be housed within Stary Ratusz.

The ground floor was allocated for military purposes and the general public had access only to the basement, where alcohol was served.

We peasants can still enjoy alcoholic beverages among the basement vaults because Piwnica Swidnicra restaurant is located beneath the town hall. Of course we had to have a drink there just to continue the tradition!

Even though the second half of the 17th century was a period of decline for Wroclaw, efforts were made to enrich the interior decorations of the hall. In 1741, Wroclaw became a part of Prussia, and the power of the city diminished. At that time, much of the town hall became allocated to administering justice.

During the 19th century the courts moved to a separate building and Stary Ratusz became the site of the City Council and its supporting functions. There was also a major renovation of the south façade with the addition of neo-Gothic stone features including sculptural decoration.

In the early years of the 20th century improvements continued with various repair work and the addition of the Little Bear Statue in 1902. Fortunately, during WWII, the town hall suffered only minor damage.

Stary Ratusz now houses a museum displaying the architectural history of the town hall, period antiques and special exhibitions. The Great Hall and other rooms are used for meetings and performances.

Don’t miss a visit to this beautiful historic building it is an amazing place learn more about the history of Wroclaw, Poland.

]]><![CDATA[Fabulous Color and Storybook Beauty in Wroclaw Poland's Medieval Market Square]]>Mon, 08 Feb 2016 22:41:17 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/fabulous-color-and-storybook-beauty-in-wroklaw-polands-medieval-market-square

When you arrive in Wroclaw Poland, your first thoughts as you walk out into the beautiful Medieval Market Square (Rynek we Wrocławiu) and its small adjacent square Plac Solney will likely be that it is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe.

Your eyes are immediately flooded with color as you take in the facades which are painted in a riot of paintbox hues and the mix of historic architectural styles lend a story-book quality to the view.

Wroclaw is located on the River Oder in the Silesian Lowlands of Central Europe and is the historical capital of Silesia and the Silesian Lowlands. Throughout its long and sometimes turbulent history, it has been part of the Kingdom of Poland, Bohemia, Hungary, the Austrian Empire, Prussia and Germany.

It was first recorded in the 10th century as the Bohemian town of Vratislavia and sat strategically at the intersection of two ancient trade routes originally named the Via Regia and the Amber Road. Today, you can buy fabulous Baltic Amber in both Wroclaw and Krakow.

By the year 1000, the settlement became a commercial center and by the 13th century, Wrocław was the political center of the Polish Kingdom. In 1335, Wrocław, together with almost all of Silesia, was incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia and then became a part of the Holy Roman Empire.

The city belonged to the Hanseatic League from 1387 – 1474. A few of the guild houses lining the square which were built during this period and during the continuing rise of the merchant class, can be found nestled among architecture influenced by Bohemian and Prussian traditions along with the Silesian Gothic and the style of the court builders of Habsburg Austria.

Below: House of the Seven Electors - Paintwork from 1672

Below: House of the Golden Sun built in 1727

Today, bars, restaurants and shops populate the beautiful historic buildings surrounding the Gothic Town Hall which sits in the center of the square, built between 1470 and 1510. The Town Hall sits beside a another picturesque structure which was built at the end of the 19th century and hosts more businesses and shops.

There is not a large cathedral inside the square as is often the case in European market squares, though slightly off in a northern corner, the Church of St. Elizabeth, built in the 14th century, presides with its tall Gothic tower. Originally built as a Catholic basilica, after the arrival of the Protestant Reformation in Wroclaw in 1518, the church became Protestant in 1525.

Off the opposite corner of the square is the beautiful Baroque Royal Palace of the Prussian Monarchy built in 1717. It now houses the city museum filled with artifacts from the history of Wroclaw.

The flower market is located in the small adjacent square called Plac Solney and one of our tour guides informed us that it was open 24 hours a day so that lovers could buy flowers at any time as flower-giving is a favorite custom in Wroclaw.

We spent lots of time in this square during the four days we visited Wroclaw and the surrounding countryside, we hope you enjoyed its storybook beauty in this photo introduction to lovely Wroclaw Poland!

]]><![CDATA[A Never to be Forgotten Visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau ]]>Mon, 01 Feb 2016 00:46:57 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/a-never-to-be-forgotten-visit-to-auschwitz-birkenau

I had to give this article a lot of thought before posting, because after our visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau outside of Krakow, Poland, I was filled with emotion, and now a few months later, I hesitated to show these photos, which still bring tears to my eyes and are a reminder of the tragic reality of suffering that went on in this famous death camp.

The piles of personal items and the gaze of prisoner photos bearing witness are particularly disturbing.

“Auschwitz” was actually a network of German Nazi concentration and extermination camps built and operated by the Third Reich in Poland areas annexed by Nazi Germany during World War II. It consisted of Auschwitz I, the original camp, Auschwitz II–Birkenau, a combination concentration-extermination camp, Auschwitz III-Monowitz, a labor camp to staff a Nazi factory, and 48 satellite camps.

Auschwitz I was first constructed to hold Polish political prisoners, who began to arrive in June 1940. The first extermination of prisoners took place in September 1941, and Auschwitz II–Birkenau went on to become a major site of the Nazi "Final Solution”.

From early 1942 until late 1944, transport trains delivered Jews to the camp's gas chambers from all over German-occupied Europe, where they were killed with the pesticide Zyklon B. At least 1.1 million prisoners died at Auschwitz, around 90 percent of them Jewish. Others deported to Auschwitz included Poles, Gypsies, Soviet prisoners of war and Jehovah’s Witnesses along with many considered by the Nazis to be “undesirable” by virtue of health, ethnicity, cultural or sexual preference, or religion.

Many of those not killed in the gas chambers died of starvation, forced labor, infectious diseases, individual executions, and medical experiments.

There are very few people who don’t know the horrific story of Auschwitz-Birkenau. For this reason, I won’t be writing more than this introduction.

The photos speak for themselves.

Auschwitz

Birkenau

Click here to learn more about visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau

]]><![CDATA[The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and St Andrew's Apostle Church - Holy Neighbors in Krakow Poland]]>Fri, 29 Jan 2016 20:19:40 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/the-church-of-saints-peter-and-paul-and-st-andrews-apostle-church-holy-neighbors-in-krakow-poland

There are a number of beautiful churches, cathedrals and basilicas in Krakow Poland and it is well worth the time to try to get to all of them. Fortunately, there are several right in the historic center and within walking distance of the main square. One of those is The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and it has a beautiful neighbor, St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is located on the picturesque winding street Ulica Grodzka, which leads from the market square Rynek Glowny to Wawel Castle.

The church is a lovely example of the Baroque style in Poland. It was funded by King Sigismund III Vasa and built for the Jesuit order between 1597–1619. Several architects worked on the church during its construction. The plan as a cruciform basilica was originally drafted by Italian architect Giovanni de Rossi. His design was initially carried out by Józef Britius and later modified by Giovanni Maria Bernardoni

The present day façade constructed from dolomite, the dome, and the Baroque interior were designed by Giovanni Battista Trevano, who completed them in the years 1605–1619.

Statues of the Jesuit saints; Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Aloysius Gonzaga and Stanislaw Kostka fill the façade niches. The emblem of the order of Jesuits with saints Sigismund of Burgundy and Ladislaus I of Hungary, presides above the entrance portal.

The enclosing railings with the twelve limestone figures of the Apostles were originally installed in 1715-22. Today, in place of the original 18th century statues, which were damaged by acid rain, are contemporary copies made by Kazimierz Jęczmyk.

The stucco decorations of the interior, mainly on the apse and overhead vaults, were created by Giovanni Battista Falconi of Milan, who spent most of his adult life working in Poland. He also created the scenes from the life and martyrdom of Saints Peter and Paul, fabulous Putti and the statues of the patrons of Poland, Saint Wojciech and Saint Stanislawa.

The high altar was designed by Kacper Bazanka in 1735 featuring Józef Brodowski’s painting "Presentation of Keys to St. Peter" (c.1820).

On the sides of the altar, there are sculpted throne compositions supported by statues of the Doctors of the Church and crowned with paintings by Szymon Czechowicz symbolizing the Western and Eastern Church.

The crypt housed the striking 17th century sarcophagus of Bishop Andrzej Trzebicki and a rare Black Madonna Icon.

Right next door, is the beautiful Romanesque church of St. Andrew’s Apostle Church. The historic church was built between 1079 and 1098 by a medieval Polish statesman named Palatine Sieciech and is a rare surviving example of the European fortress church used for defensive purposes. It was the only church in Krakow to withstand the Mongol attack of 1241.

The two octagonal looking towers, with the doubled arcade windows are perfect examples and characteristic of Romanesque architecture. The Baroque domes topping the towers were added in 1639.

From 1320 the church has been used by the Religious Order of Poor Clares. For this reason, we only had a quick peek inside as it was in use for devotions during our visit. Even though we only had a few moments inside, the beauty of the Baroque interior was memorable.

The baroque decoration of the interior, with its rich exuberant stucco decoration is by Italian painter and architect Baldassare "Baltazar" Fontana (c. 1700) and the high altar is attributed to Francesco Placidi.

The most beautiful and amazing piece of décor in the church is the silver pulpit in the shape of a fantastical boat. Equally impressive is the musical choir with 18th-century organ in the chancel, decorated in the Rococo manner.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is one of the loveliest of Poland’s Baroque churches, and St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door is like a tiny jewel box, so be sure to stop by for a visit to both when you are in Krakow!

]]><![CDATA[Wawel Castle - Home to Poland's Kings and Queens for Centuries]]>Mon, 25 Jan 2016 23:38:01 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/wawel-castle-home-to-polands-kings-and-queens-for-centuries

Historic Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland with its attached Wawel Cathedral is perch high on Wawel Hill, and we were very excited as we walked up the hill to its entrance. This is where we found that a line was forming for tickets. We happened to be in Krakow on a holiday weekend, so we had planned to be at the castle first thing in the morning.

This proved to be fortuitous because the ticket line was already getting long and we found to our surprise that a large electronic board was constantly updated with how many of the day’s limited tickets were left for sale. Due to conservation efforts only a limited number of visitors are allowed each day. The first frizzon of anxiety began to niggle me and Jim as usual began to see the worst happening…. that we wouldn’t get in!

As we stood watching the line in front of us crawl at a snail’s pace, the ticket board steadily counted down and our anxiety grew. The castle complex buildings and its museums are considered separate entities and you must purchase a ticket for each you wish to visit as well as the cathedral. This process greatly increases the amount of time each transaction takes.

Tickets to see the actual royal apartments of the castle are the most restrictive because entrance is via a guided group tour and we kept a keen eye on the tiny allotment as it steadily diminished.

We managed to finally get our tickets when there were only 18 tour tickets left for the day. Whew!

With relief, we finally walked through the arched portico of the castle wall and into the huge courtyard, only to find that photography was forbidden inside the castle and cathedral. The only place where photos were allowed was outside.

To a travel blogger this is terrible news and as you can imagine I was incredibly frustrated even as I was actually freed up to enjoy the beautiful cathedral, castle rooms and exhibits to a degree I don’t usually experience when I'm busy taking photos!

People have lived on Wawel Hill from as early as fifty thousand years ago, in the Paleolithic Age. Over time, more people began to build on the hill overlooking the Vistula River and eventually a settlement bustling with trade, assorted crafts and local farming was created.

Beginning from this small hamlet, Krakow became the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. The city dates back to the 7th century and Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish economic, academic, cultural, and artistic life.

The settlement was already being reported as a busy trading center of “Slavonic Europe” by 965 a.d. As trade through area became more efficient and important, the rulers of Poland took up their residence at the Hill as well. It was the capital of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland from 1038 to 1569. It continued to be a seat of Polish government for centuries.

The Gothic castle was built Casimir III (The Great), who reigned from 1333 to 1370, and consisted of a number of structures situated around the central courtyard. In the 14th century it was rebuilt by Jogaila and Jadwiga of Poland and defensive walls and towers were added. Their reign saw the addition of the tower called the Hen's Foot (Kurza Stopka) and the Danish Tower. Other structures were built on the hill during that time as well, in order to serve as quarters for the numerous clergy, royal clerks and craftsmen.

Below: Sigismund III Vasa Tower

Below: Hen's Foot Tower

During the early 16th century, King Sigismund I (The Old) and his wife brought in the best native and foreign artists including Italian architects, sculptors, and German decorators, to refurbish the castle into a splendid Renaissance palace.

In 1609, King Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital to Warsaw, and both the castle and other buildings fell into neglect. The Swedish invasions of 1655–1657 and 1702 contributed to the further deterioration of the castle and through the centuries, during the many conflicts, the castle and its fortifications continued to be modified to accommodate many different uses.

The royal apartments you can tour today are restored as they would have appeared in the 17th century. The state apartments are on the top (third) floor rather than the second like most European palaces. The castle’s second floor contained private apartments of the royal family, whereas the court officials worked and lived downstairs. The rooms are furnished with beautiful period furniture and world-class objects of art.

"Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The 14th century Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, known as the Wawel Cathedral, is also located on Wawel Hill. It is a Catholic church and is the Polish national sanctuary. For centuries it has served as the coronation site of the Polish monarchs as well as the Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Krakow.

It is known in modern times as the place where Karol Wojtyla, who in 1978 became Pope John Paul II, was ordained to the priesthood on All Saints Day (November 1), 1946 and served his first mass inside the Crypt of the cathedral in 1948.
As you can imagine, the 17th century cathedral interior is spectacularly beautiful!

Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The complex also has a small café with tables where you can find a drink and snack to break up your visits to the various museums and buildings of the castle. We enjoyed a leisurely sandwich and beer lunch while we people-watched in the large courtyard.

Wawel Castle is definitely a must-see when you visit Krakow, Poland, but to make your trip even more enjoyable, be sure to follow these suggestions:

Try avoid visiting during a holiday weekend
Make reservations ahead of your visit at the Tourist Service office
Arrive early in the morning
Opt for the guided tour (Polish/English only) of the royal apartments
Remember, you must buy a separate ticket for each museum/castle/cathedral site in the complex.

Learn more about visiting Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland

]]><![CDATA[Exploring Wieliczka - Krakow's Medieval Royal Salt Mine ]]>Fri, 22 Jan 2016 01:26:33 GMThttp://ssmeder.com/susans-tales/january-21st-2016

The Wieliczka Salt Mine was established on the outskirts of Krakow Poland in the 13th century as a royal salt mine. For centuries it was one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments when common salt was commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil.

Nine centuries of mining in the Wieliczka mine produced a total depth of approximately 327 meters (1,073 ft) and over 287 kilometers (178 mi) of passages as well as 2,040 caverns of various sizes. Commercial mining was discontinued in 1996 due to low salt prices and mine flooding, but the mine continued to produce table salt until 2007.

Millions of visitors, including the crowned heads of state, notables including Copernicus, Chopin, Goethe and Sarah Bernhardt and even a Pope (John Paul II) among them, have explored the subterranean world of labyrinthine passages, giant caverns, underground lakes and chapels with sculptures in the crystalline salt and rich ornamentation carved in the salt rock. In 1978 the mine was placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

To visit the mine, you must join a guided group-tour. We were each provided with receiver and earbuds so we could hear our guide even when exploring a few feet away from her. She was very informative and knowledgeable which definitely added to our enjoyment of the experience.

The tourist route starts 64 m deep, includes twenty chambers, and ends 135 m below the earth surface, where the world's biggest museum of mining is located with the unique centuries-old equipment among its exhibits.

The experience begins with a walk straight down several flights of wooden stairs giving you a real sense of descending into the mine. As you tour, plaques indicate the date that each level was excavated starting with the oldest excavations nearer the surface and progressing to later dates as you go deeper underground.

The rock salt is naturally various shades of grey, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors may expect. Cauliflower-looking white-salt eruptions cover ceilings and walls and stalactites formed by salt-water hang from the ceilings.

Grottoes filled with cave-lakes reflecting the continual flooding the miners had to deal with.

Vignettes populate the caverns to help people understand what the 17th and 18th century mining experience would have entailed, including a huge Hungarian horse-treadmill, horse-drawn ore-carts and torch-lit mining.

Precarious carved steps, ladders and an amazingly tall wooden staircase which fills one huge cavern reminded us that before the advent of mine-lifts, men would have trudged up and down these intricate stairways and slippery salt slopes.

There are also clever vignettes of tiny “Gnome Miners” adding a bit of fantasy to the experience!

Salt-sculptures along the passages and inside the cavern rooms are beautifully carved and bring to mind scenes of workers showing their artistic side during the long tedious days underground. There are also a number of small chapels and nitches filled with religious figures.

Below is a sculptural vignette that portrays the legend attached to the mine:

"Princess Kinga, a Hungarian noblewoman was about to be married to Bolesław V the Chaste, the Prince of Kraków. As part of her dowry, she asked her father for a lump of salt, since salt was prizeworthy in Poland.

Her father King Béla took her to a salt mine in Máramaros. She threw her engagement ring from Bolesław in one of the shafts before leaving for Poland. On arriving in Kraków, she asked the miners to dig a deep pit until they come upon a rock.

The people found a lump of salt in there and when they split it in two, discovered the princess's ring. Kinga thus became the patron saint of salt miners in and around the Polish capital."

The Wieliczka mine is often referred to as "the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland." Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance. The huge cathedral cavern walls are carved with beautiful religious statuary and reliefs including an amazing reproduction of the “Last Supper”.

Even the floors are carved salt simulating floor tiles.

The interiors of the large mine caverns and “cathedral” have marvelous acoustics and are often used for musical performances.

Deep underground, you can take a break in the gift-shop and café caverns. You can buy table salt mined from Wieliczka from the gift-shop. There are also halls available for special events including a bar area.

Just a note: Leaving the mine can be very confusing! The signs were not clear, so we lined up behind the “individual tourist” sign hoping it was the right one. After a group had gathered, someone lead us off onto a long……long….. underground walk, with further commentary and a quick stop at another chapel, which we began to think was another tour so we began to panic. We had a ride to catch! Fortunately, just as we were about to bolt from the group to find our way alone back to the sign, we came to the “real” exit. So be aware, the exit is EXTREMELY long walk and we promise you aren’t starting a new tour!

A visit to the historic royal Wieliczka Salt Mine is a fun and educational experience and anyone visiting Krakow, Poland should plan to visit this amazing place!

Click here to learn more about visiting the Wieliczka Salt Mine!

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