Category: Krakow

A Never to be Forgotten Visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau

1/31/2016

I had to give this article a lot of thought before posting, because after our visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau outside of Krakow, Poland, I was filled with emotion, and now a few months later, I hesitated to show these photos, which still bring tears to my eyes and are a reminder of the tragic reality of suffering that went on in this famous death camp.

The piles of personal items and the gaze of prisoner photos bearing witness are particularly disturbing.

“Auschwitz” was actually a network of German Nazi concentration and extermination camps built and operated by the Third Reich in Poland areas annexed by Nazi Germany during World War II. It consisted of Auschwitz I, the original camp, Auschwitz II–Birkenau, a combination concentration-extermination camp, Auschwitz III-Monowitz, a labor camp to staff a Nazi factory, and 48 satellite camps.

Auschwitz I was first constructed to hold Polish political prisoners, who began to arrive in June 1940. The first extermination of prisoners took place in September 1941, and Auschwitz II–Birkenau went on to become a major site of the Nazi "Final Solution”.

From early 1942 until late 1944, transport trains delivered Jews to the camp's gas chambers from all over German-occupied Europe, where they were killed with the pesticide Zyklon B. At least 1.1 million prisoners died at Auschwitz, around 90 percent of them Jewish. Others deported to Auschwitz included Poles, Gypsies, Soviet prisoners of war and Jehovah’s Witnesses along with many considered by the Nazis to be “undesirable” by virtue of health, ethnicity, cultural or sexual preference, or religion.

Many of those not killed in the gas chambers died of starvation, forced labor, infectious diseases, individual executions, and medical experiments.

There are very few people who don’t know the horrific story of Auschwitz-Birkenau. For this reason, I won’t be writing more than this introduction.

The photos speak for themselves.

Auschwitz

Birkenau

Click here to learn more about visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau

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The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and St Andrew's Apostle Church - Holy Neighbors in Krakow Poland

1/29/2016

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There are a number of beautiful churches, cathedrals and basilicas in Krakow Poland and it is well worth the time to try to get to all of them. Fortunately, there are several right in the historic center and within walking distance of the main square. One of those is The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and it has a beautiful neighbor, St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is located on the picturesque winding street Ulica Grodzka, which leads from the market square Rynek Glowny to Wawel Castle.

The church is a lovely example of the Baroque style in Poland. It was funded by King Sigismund III Vasa and built for the Jesuit order between 1597–1619. Several architects worked on the church during its construction. The plan as a cruciform basilica was originally drafted by Italian architect Giovanni de Rossi. His design was initially carried out by Józef Britius and later modified by Giovanni Maria Bernardoni

The present day façade constructed from dolomite, the dome, and the Baroque interior were designed by Giovanni Battista Trevano, who completed them in the years 1605–1619.

Statues of the Jesuit saints; Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Aloysius Gonzaga and Stanislaw Kostka fill the façade niches. The emblem of the order of Jesuits with saints Sigismund of Burgundy and Ladislaus I of Hungary, presides above the entrance portal.

The enclosing railings with the twelve limestone figures of the Apostles were originally installed in 1715-22. Today, in place of the original 18th century statues, which were damaged by acid rain, are contemporary copies made by Kazimierz Jęczmyk.

The stucco decorations of the interior, mainly on the apse and overhead vaults, were created by Giovanni Battista Falconi of Milan, who spent most of his adult life working in Poland. He also created the scenes from the life and martyrdom of Saints Peter and Paul, fabulous Putti and the statues of the patrons of Poland, Saint Wojciech and Saint Stanislawa.

The high altar was designed by Kacper Bazanka in 1735 featuring Józef Brodowski’s painting "Presentation of Keys to St. Peter" (c.1820).

On the sides of the altar, there are sculpted throne compositions supported by statues of the Doctors of the Church and crowned with paintings by Szymon Czechowicz symbolizing the Western and Eastern Church.

The crypt housed the striking 17th century sarcophagus of Bishop Andrzej Trzebicki and a rare Black Madonna Icon.

Right next door, is the beautiful Romanesque church of St. Andrew’s Apostle Church. The historic church was built between 1079 and 1098 by a medieval Polish statesman named Palatine Sieciech and is a rare surviving example of the European fortress church used for defensive purposes. It was the only church in Krakow to withstand the Mongol attack of 1241.

The two octagonal looking towers, with the doubled arcade windows are perfect examples and characteristic of Romanesque architecture. The Baroque domes topping the towers were added in 1639.

From 1320 the church has been used by the Religious Order of Poor Clares. For this reason, we only had a quick peek inside as it was in use for devotions during our visit. Even though we only had a few moments inside, the beauty of the Baroque interior was memorable.

The baroque decoration of the interior, with its rich exuberant stucco decoration is by Italian painter and architect Baldassare "Baltazar" Fontana (c. 1700) and the high altar is attributed to Francesco Placidi.

The most beautiful and amazing piece of décor in the church is the silver pulpit in the shape of a fantastical boat. Equally impressive is the musical choir with 18th-century organ in the chancel, decorated in the Rococo manner.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is one of the loveliest of Poland’s Baroque churches, and St. Andrew’s Apostle Church right next door is like a tiny jewel box, so be sure to stop by for a visit to both when you are in Krakow!

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Wawel Castle - Home to Poland's Kings and Queens for Centuries

1/25/2016

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Historic Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland with its attached Wawel Cathedral is perch high on Wawel Hill, and we were very excited as we walked up the hill to its entrance. This is where we found that a line was forming for tickets. We happened to be in Krakow on a holiday weekend, so we had planned to be at the castle first thing in the morning.

This proved to be fortuitous because the ticket line was already getting long and we found to our surprise that a large electronic board was constantly updated with how many of the day’s limited tickets were left for sale. Due to conservation efforts only a limited number of visitors are allowed each day. The first frizzon of anxiety began to niggle me and Jim as usual began to see the worst happening…. that we wouldn’t get in!

As we stood watching the line in front of us crawl at a snail’s pace, the ticket board steadily counted down and our anxiety grew. The castle complex buildings and its museums are considered separate entities and you must purchase a ticket for each you wish to visit as well as the cathedral. This process greatly increases the amount of time each transaction takes.

Tickets to see the actual royal apartments of the castle are the most restrictive because entrance is via a guided group tour and we kept a keen eye on the tiny allotment as it steadily diminished.

We managed to finally get our tickets when there were only 18 tour tickets left for the day. Whew!

With relief, we finally walked through the arched portico of the castle wall and into the huge courtyard, only to find that photography was forbidden inside the castle and cathedral. The only place where photos were allowed was outside.

To a travel blogger this is terrible news and as you can imagine I was incredibly frustrated even as I was actually freed up to enjoy the beautiful cathedral, castle rooms and exhibits to a degree I don’t usually experience when I'm busy taking photos!

People have lived on Wawel Hill from as early as fifty thousand years ago, in the Paleolithic Age. Over time, more people began to build on the hill overlooking the Vistula River and eventually a settlement bustling with trade, assorted crafts and local farming was created.

Beginning from this small hamlet, Krakow became the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. The city dates back to the 7th century and Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish economic, academic, cultural, and artistic life.

The settlement was already being reported as a busy trading center of “Slavonic Europe” by 965 a.d. As trade through area became more efficient and important, the rulers of Poland took up their residence at the Hill as well. It was the capital of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland from 1038 to 1569. It continued to be a seat of Polish government for centuries.

The Gothic castle was built Casimir III (The Great), who reigned from 1333 to 1370, and consisted of a number of structures situated around the central courtyard. In the 14th century it was rebuilt by Jogaila and Jadwiga of Poland and defensive walls and towers were added. Their reign saw the addition of the tower called the Hen's Foot (Kurza Stopka) and the Danish Tower. Other structures were built on the hill during that time as well, in order to serve as quarters for the numerous clergy, royal clerks and craftsmen.

Below: Sigismund III Vasa Tower

Below: Hen's Foot Tower

During the early 16th century, King Sigismund I (The Old) and his wife brought in the best native and foreign artists including Italian architects, sculptors, and German decorators, to refurbish the castle into a splendid Renaissance palace.

In 1609, King Sigismund III Vasa moved the capital to Warsaw, and both the castle and other buildings fell into neglect. The Swedish invasions of 1655–1657 and 1702 contributed to the further deterioration of the castle and through the centuries, during the many conflicts, the castle and its fortifications continued to be modified to accommodate many different uses.

The royal apartments you can tour today are restored as they would have appeared in the 17th century. The state apartments are on the top (third) floor rather than the second like most European palaces. The castle’s second floor contained private apartments of the royal family, whereas the court officials worked and lived downstairs. The rooms are furnished with beautiful period furniture and world-class objects of art.

"Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The 14th century Royal Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, known as the Wawel Cathedral, is also located on Wawel Hill. It is a Catholic church and is the Polish national sanctuary. For centuries it has served as the coronation site of the Polish monarchs as well as the Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Krakow.

It is known in modern times as the place where Karol Wojtyla, who in 1978 became Pope John Paul II, was ordained to the priesthood on All Saints Day (November 1), 1946 and served his first mass inside the Crypt of the cathedral in 1948.
As you can imagine, the 17th century cathedral interior is spectacularly beautiful!

Credit - Above 2 interior photos - publishing house Karpaty, Andrzej Laczynski, Crakow "Wawel Castle and Cathedral"

The complex also has a small café with tables where you can find a drink and snack to break up your visits to the various museums and buildings of the castle. We enjoyed a leisurely sandwich and beer lunch while we people-watched in the large courtyard.

Wawel Castle is definitely a must-see when you visit Krakow, Poland, but to make your trip even more enjoyable, be sure to follow these suggestions:

Try avoid visiting during a holiday weekend
Make reservations ahead of your visit at the Tourist Service office
Arrive early in the morning
Opt for the guided tour (Polish/English only) of the royal apartments
Remember, you must buy a separate ticket for each museum/castle/cathedral site in the complex.

Learn more about visiting Wawel Castle in Krakow, Poland

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Exploring Wieliczka - Krakow's Medieval Royal Salt Mine

1/21/2016

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The Wieliczka Salt Mine was established on the outskirts of Krakow Poland in the 13th century as a royal salt mine. For centuries it was one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments when common salt was commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil.

Nine centuries of mining in the Wieliczka mine produced a total depth of approximately 327 meters (1,073 ft) and over 287 kilometers (178 mi) of passages as well as 2,040 caverns of various sizes. Commercial mining was discontinued in 1996 due to low salt prices and mine flooding, but the mine continued to produce table salt until 2007.

Millions of visitors, including the crowned heads of state, notables including Copernicus, Chopin, Goethe and Sarah Bernhardt and even a Pope (John Paul II) among them, have explored the subterranean world of labyrinthine passages, giant caverns, underground lakes and chapels with sculptures in the crystalline salt and rich ornamentation carved in the salt rock. In 1978 the mine was placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

To visit the mine, you must join a guided group-tour. We were each provided with receiver and earbuds so we could hear our guide even when exploring a few feet away from her. She was very informative and knowledgeable which definitely added to our enjoyment of the experience.

The tourist route starts 64 m deep, includes twenty chambers, and ends 135 m below the earth surface, where the world's biggest museum of mining is located with the unique centuries-old equipment among its exhibits.

The experience begins with a walk straight down several flights of wooden stairs giving you a real sense of descending into the mine. As you tour, plaques indicate the date that each level was excavated starting with the oldest excavations nearer the surface and progressing to later dates as you go deeper underground.

The rock salt is naturally various shades of grey, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors may expect. Cauliflower-looking white-salt eruptions cover ceilings and walls and stalactites formed by salt-water hang from the ceilings.

Grottoes filled with cave-lakes reflecting the continual flooding the miners had to deal with.

Vignettes populate the caverns to help people understand what the 17th and 18th century mining experience would have entailed, including a huge Hungarian horse-treadmill, horse-drawn ore-carts and torch-lit mining.

Precarious carved steps, ladders and an amazingly tall wooden staircase which fills one huge cavern reminded us that before the advent of mine-lifts, men would have trudged up and down these intricate stairways and slippery salt slopes.

There are also clever vignettes of tiny “Gnome Miners” adding a bit of fantasy to the experience!

Salt-sculptures along the passages and inside the cavern rooms are beautifully carved and bring to mind scenes of workers showing their artistic side during the long tedious days underground. There are also a number of small chapels and nitches filled with religious figures.

Below is a sculptural vignette that portrays the legend attached to the mine:

"Princess Kinga, a Hungarian noblewoman was about to be married to Bolesław V the Chaste, the Prince of Kraków. As part of her dowry, she asked her father for a lump of salt, since salt was prizeworthy in Poland.

Her father King Béla took her to a salt mine in Máramaros. She threw her engagement ring from Bolesław in one of the shafts before leaving for Poland. On arriving in Kraków, she asked the miners to dig a deep pit until they come upon a rock.

The people found a lump of salt in there and when they split it in two, discovered the princess's ring. Kinga thus became the patron saint of salt miners in and around the Polish capital."

The Wieliczka mine is often referred to as "the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland." Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance. The huge cathedral cavern walls are carved with beautiful religious statuary and reliefs including an amazing reproduction of the “Last Supper”.

Even the floors are carved salt simulating floor tiles.

The interiors of the large mine caverns and “cathedral” have marvelous acoustics and are often used for musical performances.

Deep underground, you can take a break in the gift-shop and café caverns. You can buy table salt mined from Wieliczka from the gift-shop. There are also halls available for special events including a bar area.

Just a note: Leaving the mine can be very confusing! The signs were not clear, so we lined up behind the “individual tourist” sign hoping it was the right one. After a group had gathered, someone lead us off onto a long……long….. underground walk, with further commentary and a quick stop at another chapel, which we began to think was another tour so we began to panic. We had a ride to catch! Fortunately, just as we were about to bolt from the group to find our way alone back to the sign, we came to the “real” exit. So be aware, the exit is EXTREMELY long walk and we promise you aren’t starting a new tour!

A visit to the historic royal Wieliczka Salt Mine is a fun and educational experience and anyone visiting Krakow, Poland should plan to visit this amazing place!

Click here to learn more about visiting the Wieliczka Salt Mine!

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Pierogi Love in Krakow Poland!

1/17/2016

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You simply can’t visit Poland and not try their famous dish called the “Pierogi” and Jim and I found a number occasions to order it, telling ourselves we needed to try all the different preparations. The reality was that they are just really yummy. This is a high-carb dish perfect for fueling an afternoon of sightseeing.

While staying in Krakow, we chose to indulge at a restaurant called Chopin which is located right on the market square, Rynek Glowny. We sat at a table on the outside terrace where we had a fabulous view of the historic square, its beautiful buildings, the many elaborately decorated horses and carriages and most importantly, it was perfect for people-watching.

Chopin specializes in authentic Polish cuisine as well as other European specialties, but we were on the hunt for pierogis so we stayed focused even though other dishes delivered to nearby tables also looked very good. Happily, the pierogis when they arrived were absolutely delicious and everything we had hoped they would be!

Pierogi or pirogi (pronounced pi-ROH-ghee) are stuffed dumplings of East European origin. They are made by wrapping pockets of unleavened dough around a savory or sweet filling and cooked in boiling water. The dumplings are usually semi-circular but triangular and rectangular ones are also found. Typical fillings include mashed potato, sauerkraut, ground meat, cabbage, mushrooms, spinach and cheese in the savory version. The savory dumplings are often served with toppings, such as melted butter, sour cream or fried onion.

Our favorite pierogi turned out to be the meat dumplings which are filled with a well spiced very flavorful ground beef mixture. We also tried the “Russian” style pierogi which was filled with mashed potatoes, farmers cheese and fried onions and a version with cabbage and mushrooms.

Fruits and jams including cherry, strawberry, saskatoon berry, raspberry, blueberry, peach, plum, apple and prunes are used in the sweet pierogis. I have to admit, we did not try the fruit version, so we now have a perfect excuse (among SO many others) to return to Poland!

Be sure to try pierogis when you visit Poland. They should not be missed, and sitting on the terrace at Chopin watching the scene in beautiful Rynek Glowny is the perfect way to experience this Polish national dish……and you might even get a serenade!

Learn more about Chopin Restaurant in Krakow, Poland

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St Mary's Basilica in Krakow - A Sacred Space filled with Golden Stars

1/14/2016

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Sitting in Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s large market square, you can’t help but be impressed by the tall beauty of the Church of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven also known as St. Mary’s Basilica.

According to chronicler Jan Dlugosz the first parish church at the Main Square in Kraków was founded in 1221–1222 by the Bishop of Krakow, Iwo Odrowaz. The church was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of Poland. Between 1290–1300 a second Early Gothic church was built on the remaining foundations.

The church was completely rebuilt under the reign of Casimir III (the Great) between 1355 and 1365. The vault (originally built in 1395) collapsed and was rebuilt. The presbytery was elongated and tall windows added. The nave was completed in 1395–97 and the new vault was constructed.

At the same time the northern tower was torn down and rebuilt to serve as the watch tower for the entire city. In 1478 the helmet on the tower was added. A gilded crown was placed on it in 1666, which is still present today.

In the first half of the 15th century, the side chapels were added.

In the 18th century, the interior was rebuilt in the Late Baroque style. All 26 altars, equipment, furniture, benches and paintings were replaced and the walls were decorated with painting by the artist Andrzej Radwański.

In the years 1887–1891, additional neo-Gothic design was introduced into the Basilica.

Though the layers of beauty added throughout the centuries are impressive and make this basilica into a virtual jewel box, in my opinion, the most spectacular part of this fabulous interior are the star covered ceiling vaults, where a golden array of stars shine from a deep royal blue field.

The highlight of this fabulous interior, is the Altarpiece of Veit Stoss, which is the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world and a national treasure of Poland. The altarpiece was carved between 1477 and 1489 by the German sculptor Veit Stoss (Wit Stwosz) who lived in Krakow from about 1477–1497.

Interestingly, a few weeks prior to the outbreak of the WWII and German occupation, the Poles took the altar apart and dispersed it across the country. Unfortunately, the crates were found and the Altarpiece was confiscated by a Nazi unit called the Sonderkommando Paulsen and transported to the Third Reich. The panels were also found and sent to Germany. They were put in the basement of the Nuremberg Castle. The altar survived the war in spite of heavy bombardment of Nuremberg.

The magnificent altarpiece was fortunately discovered by Count Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, of the Polish 1st Armored Division, and returned to Poland in 1946 where it presides behind the high altar of the opulent and impressive sacred space of St. Mary’s Basilica to this day.

There is particularly interesting footnote to the history of St. Mary's. On every hour, a trumpet signal called the Hejnal Mariacki "Saint Mary's Dawn"; a traditional, five-note Polish anthem closely bound to the history and traditions of the capital, Kraków. It is played from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers and the plaintive tune breaks off in mid-stream, to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter, who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city. Try to be in the square to hear this unique bell toll!

Learn more about visiting St. Mary's Basilica in Krakow, Poland

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Evening in Rynek Glowny - A Photo Portrait of Krakow's Market Square

1/10/2016

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Sunset into evening is always the most beautiful time to photograph and as we had hoped, it was an enchanting evening in Krakow.

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Learning About Poland's Jewish History in the Kazimierz District of Krakow

1/9/2016

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One of the best ways to see a city is on a guided electric-car tour, and there are many to chose from. They are strategically located all around the old-town of Krakow. We chose to use City Tour to get an up-close view of Krakow. The tour is conducted via multi-seating electric carts but as it turned out, we were the only people on board so it felt like a private tour. The market squares of Europe’s old cities are always amazingly beautiful, but there are always other interesting districts to see also and you shouldn’t miss them.

All of the electric-car tour companies offer a variety of city itineraries but we had already walked much of the old-town, so we chose to venture further out and take a tour of the Kazimierz District (Jewish Historic District) and the WWII Krakow ghetto.

Krakow is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. It grew from a Stone Age settlement into Poland's second most important city. The city dates back to the 7th century and Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish economic, academic, cultural, and artistic life. It began as a hamlet on Wawel Hill (location of the royal castle) and was already being reported as a busy trading center of “Slavonic Europe” by 965 a.d. The city is situated on the Vistula River in the “Lesser Poland” region and was the capital of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland from 1038 to 1569. It continued to be a seat of Polish government for centuries.

As we left the beautifully restored center, we found streets filled with every-day shops, cafes, churches and businesses you would find in any neighborhood though many of the buildings had picturesque Bell-Époque facades above the store-fronts adding a venere of beauty to the every-day street scene.

We were struck by the occasional facade that remained obviously unrestored or patched-up ever since WWII. You couldn't help but be reminded of the difficulties and challenges Poland has faced from the end of WWII through the present.

We were welcomed by a busy flea-market as we entered the old neighborhood called the Kazimierz District.

Jews had played an important role in the Kraków regional economy since the end of the 13th century, and they were granted the freedom of worship, trade and travel by Boleslaw the Pious in his General Charter of Jewish Liberties issued in 1264. The Jewish community in Kraków lived undisturbed alongside their Christian neighbors under the protective King Kazimierz III, the last king of the Piast dynasty.

According to general historic record, in 1495, King Jan I Olbracht moved the Krakow Jewish community to the nearby royal city of Kazimierz, which gave rise to a bustling Jewish quarter and a major European center of the Diaspora for the next three centuries. With time it turned into virtually separate and self-governed 34-acre Jewish Town, considered a model for every East European shtetl, within the limits of the gentile city of Kazimierz.

As refugees from all over Europe came to find the safe haven in the Jewish quarter, its population reached 4,500 by 1630. The Jewish leaders petitioned to build walls enclosing their community which was granted and the “Oppidum” Jewish Town, became the main spiritual and cultural center of Polish Jewry, hosting many of Poland’s finest Jewish scholars, artists and craftsmen.

This golden age came to an end in 1782 under Austrian Emperor Joseph II. In 1791, Kazimierz lost its status as a separate city and became a district of Kraków and in 1822, the walls were torn down, removing any physical reminder of the old borders between Jewish and Christian Kazimierz.

Several historic civic and religious sites from this period still exist in Kazimierz.

Former Kazimierz Town Hall originally built in the Plac Wolnica (town square) in the 15th century. The Bell Tower remains from the 15th century. The remaining façade of the building is from the 16th century and designed in the Renaissance style. It is now the Museum of Ethnology.

The Corpus Christi Basilica (Bazylika Bożego Ciała in Polish), located in the old Christian district of Kazimierz is a Gothic church founded by King Kasimir III the Great in 1335.

The High Synagogue (Synagoga Wysoka or Nowa Boznica) is a late Gothic building where the upper floor was turned into a public place of worship in 1563. Everyday secular life went on downstairs. The only original parts remaining from the historic synagogue are the façade with its Renaissance portal, and the remnants of an Aron Hakodesh in the former men’s prayer hall. The building now houses a photography exhibition called ‘Two Faces of the Cracow Jews’ that shows the city’s prewar Jewish community.

Poland’s oldest synagogue “Stara Boznica” was built in the early 16th century next to the 14th-century city walls. It was destroyed by fire in 1557, and the exterior of the brick building was restored in the Renaissance style. The interior is basically Gothic. The Nazis damaged the synagogue and turned to a warehouse, they also executed 30 Polish hostages at its wall in 1943. The synagogue was restored in 1955-1957. Since 1961 the Old Synagogue has served as a museum of Jewish history, culture, and tradition.

Isaac’s Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka or Boznica Ajzyka) was funded by a local banker Isaac reb Yekele. The baroque structure was built in 1644. It was refurbished in 1857 and was again damaged by the Nazis during German occupation of Krakow in the WWII. The synagogue was reconstructed in the 1970s and the 1980s. It now houses a video-and-photography show titled ‘In Memory of Polish Jews’.

Synagoga Remuh is the smallest of the Kazimierz synagogues. The Renaissance building was erected in 1558 beside the Jewish cemetery of the same name which was established in 1533 and closed in 1800. The name commemorates rabbi Moses Isserles Auerbach (born circa 1520, died 1572) a.k.a. Remuh (RaMa), who was a religious writer-philosopher of international fame and son of the synagogue’s founder.

His tomb is located in the adjacent Remuh Cemetery. The synagogue and the cemetery, were both devastated under the Nazi rule. They were restored in stages from 1956-1968. The synagogue is the venue for religious services for orthodox Jews in Krakow. The interior boasts its original Aron Hakodesh, a Renaissance stone cabinet for the Torah.

The Remuh Cemetery, also known as the Old Jewish Cemetery of Kraków, is an inactive Jewish historic cemetery established in 1535. The New Jewish Cemetery was founded in 1800 on grounds purchased by the Jewish Qahal from the Augustinian Order. It was enlarged in 1836 with additional land purchased from the monks. The cemeteries hold the grave sites of many notable Polish Jews and were greatly damaged and desecrated during and after WWII.

A small park provides a place to reflect and meditate upon the tragic fate of 65 thousand Polish Jews during WWII.

Our next stop was the Krakow ghetto. The Jewish inhabitants of Kazimierz were forcibly relocated in 1941 by the German occupying forces into the Krakow ghetto just across the river in Podgorze (not, as often believed, in the historic Jewish district of Kazimierz).

The Ghetto was surrounded by the newly built walls that kept it separated from the rest of the city. All windows and doors that opened onto the "Aryan" side were ordered to be bricked up. Only four guarded entrances allowed traffic to pass in or out.

Fifteen thousand Jews were crammed into an area previously inhabited by 3,000 people who used to live in a district consisting of 30 streets, 320 residential buildings, and 3,167 rooms.

You can still find surviving portions of the ghetto wall to this day.

The only working pharmacy enclosed within the Kraków Ghetto belonged to Tadeusz Pankiewicz, a Polish Roman Catholic pharmacist permitted by the German authorities to operate his "Under the Eagle Pharmacy" there, upon his request. The scarce medications and tranquilizers supplied to the ghetto's residents (often free of charge) contributed to their survival.

In recognition of his heroic deeds in helping countless Jews in the Ghetto during the Holocaust, he was bestowed the title of the Righteous Among the Nations by Yad Vashem on February 10, 1983.

Above photo credit: Macieias at pl.wikipedia

From 30 May 1942 onward, the Nazis began systematic deportation from the Ghetto to surrounding concentration camps.

Jews were assembled on Zgody Square first and then escorted to the railway station in Prokocim. The first transport consisted of 7,000 people, the second, of additional 4,000 Jews deported to Belzec death camp in 1942. In 1943, the final 'liquidation' of the ghetto was carried out. Eight thousand Jews deemed able to work were transported to the Plaszow labor camp. Those deemed unfit for work (about 2,000 people) were killed in the streets of the ghetto. Any remaining people inside the ghetto were sent to Auschwitz.

Needless to say, Jim and I were sad and quiet at the enormity of the history we were seeing on this part of the tour. A Stunningly poignant monument stands today to commemorate this terrible suffering.

The last historic site we visited before returning to the old Kasimierz center, was Krakow’s fabled Oskar Schindler's Factory of Enameled Vessels ‘Emalia’. It has been turned into a modern museum devoted to the wartime experiences in Krakow under the five-year Nazi occupation during the World War II. The museum takes up the sprawling administration building of the defunct plant in the city’s industrial district of Zablocie on the right bank of Wisla river.

Oskar Schindler (28 April 1908 – 9 October 1974) was an ethnic German, industrialist and member of the Nazi Party. He is credited with saving the lives of 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust by employing them in his enamelware and munitions factories. It is said that by the end of the war, Schindler had spent his entire fortune on bribes and black-market purchases of supplies for his workers.

Remaining in contact with many of the Jews he had met during the war, Schindler survived on donations sent by Schindlerjuden from all over the world. He died on 9 October 1974 and is buried in Jerusalem on Mount Zion, the only member of the Nazi Party to be honored in this way. For his work during the war, in 1963 Schindler was named Righteous Among the Nations, an award bestowed by the State of Israel on non-Jews who took an active role to rescue Jews during the Holocaust

Oskar Schindler, his factory, and the fate of its Jewish workforce feature prominently in the museum. Roughly a sixth of the museum’s permanent exhibition is dedicated to them. The rest shows prewar Krakow, the German invasion in 1939, Krakow as the capital of Poland under the Nazi occupation, the sorrows of everyday living in the occupied city, family life, the wartime history of Krakow Jews, the resistance movement, the underground Polish state, and lastly the Soviet capture of the city.

It is also now host to the Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow in the former workshops and a branch of the Historical museum of the City of Krakow.

Sadly, we did not have time to go into the museum on this particular tour (though you can book a tour that includes entry to the museum) because we had planned to visit the museum later. As with all trips, time can mess up the best of plans so we were not able to get back to the museum. It is now on our “have to get back to here” list!

Since 1988, a popular annual Jewish Cultural Festival has drawn people back to Kazimierz and re-introduced Jewish culture to a generation of Poles who have grown up without Poland’s historic Jewish community and the tours of this ancient community have educated tourists from around the world.

Since 1993, there has been an effort to restore important historic sites in Kazimierz and a booming growth in Jewish-themed restaurants, bars, bookstores and souvenir shops. Recently, Kazimierz along with Krakow, is having a small growth in Jewish population including some Jews returning to Kazimierz from Israel and America.

Below: Szeroka Street

Kazimierz is a part of the city of Krakow that is vibrant, historic and so interesting and is definitely a part of the old city that you should not miss!

Learn more about visiting the Kazimierz District of Krakow

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Bracka 6 - A Lovely Luxury Apartment in the Center of Krakow

1/7/2016

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In planning our stay in Krakow Poland, we decided it would be fun to stay in an apartment rather than a full service hotel. It has always been a fantasy of ours to stay in apartments throughout Europe so when Apartmenty Bracka 6 caught our eye on the internet, we had to book it. It was everything we could have hoped for and more!

Apartmenty Bracka 6 is located just off the main market square (Rynek Glowny) on a pretty street called Ulica Bracka, within easy walking distance of many sites, shops and restaurants

We arrived during a music festival which made parking a little bit of a challenge because the side streets were filled with parked cars and we found it difficult to find a place in front of the apartment to temporarily stop.

Fortunately, we had called the apartment office of Bracka 6 just before we arrived in the city and the friendly receptionist was waiting for us in front of the apartment to give us directions to the parking area. The tiny parking lot was located about a block away and to our great relief, when we reached it an efficient worker helped us park. Parking is always important, because it greatly affects your hotel experience and we were pleased with the arrangements at Bracka 6.

Apartmenty Bracka 6 is an intimate group of luxury apartments located on the 2nd floor (American 3rd fl.) of a beautiful historic building. We understand there is a lift available, but we climbed the three flights of stairs carrying our luggage and managed to survive.

We were thrilled when we entered our flat to see that the apartment was spacious and lovely. It was modern and stylish with a full sitting room, well equipped kitchen and separate bedroom. The bed was very comfortable and everything was sparkling clean which are important requirements for us along with good internet access and a safe, both of which were also provided.

As typical Americans (we like our bathroom privacy), we were a little surprised to see that the pretty bathroom was enclosed in glass, open to the rest of the apartment. Fortunately, the toilet and shower areas are actually secluded behind strategically placed walls and the overall effect makes the apartment feel even more light and spacious.

We were also very impressed with the security at Bracka 6. Since the reception is not open twenty-four hours a day, a card key provides access to the apartment building, then again to the 2nd floor hallway and then also to your particular apartment so you can easily come and go with a feeling of safety at all hours.

Several excellent restaurants and bars are conveniently located on Ulica Bracka and we tried a few of them which we will review later. A number of these establishments are also open for breakfast and we enjoyed an excellent breakfast each morning right across the street from our apartment!

Well located, comfortable and stylish this apartment-hotel was everything we had hoped for. We loved our stay at Bracka 6 and would highly recommend it for your stay in Krakow!

Click here to learn more about how to stay at Bracka 6 in Krakow Poland

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A Never to be Forgotten Visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul and St Andrew's Apostle Church - Holy Neighbors in Krakow Poland

Wawel Castle - Home to Poland's Kings and Queens for Centuries

Exploring Wieliczka - Krakow's Medieval Royal Salt Mine

Pierogi Love in Krakow Poland!

St Mary's Basilica in Krakow - A Sacred Space filled with Golden Stars

Evening in Rynek Glowny - A Photo Portrait of Krakow's Market Square

Learning About Poland's Jewish History in the Kazimierz District of Krakow

Bracka 6 - A Lovely Luxury Apartment in the Center of Krakow

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